People: Noah Ward, Laura & Brendan Carter
Place: Riverland, South Australia
Grapes: Sauvignon Blanc, Fiano, Gewürztraminer, Greco, Moscato Giallo, Chardonnay, Syrah, Merlot, Sangiovese
Type of Farming: Organic
Production: 320.000 bottles

Unico Zelo and Applewood Distillery, located in Gumeracha, Adelaide Hills, have gained ground-breaking status due to the efforts of Brendan and Laura Carter. The duo has worked with both local and sourced grapes to redefine the potential for new varieties, even in overlooked locations. By producing single-site bottlings, they have raised the bar in terms of flavor and structure, while their entry-level offerings retain vibrant drinkability. Furthermore, their achievements have been recognized with the 2014 Young Gun of Wine People's Choice Award.

Noah Ward, Laura & Brendan Carter

“Approximately a decade ago, my wife and I met and soon discovered a shared aspiration to relocate to Italy. Our motivation stemmed from a profound appreciation for approach Europeans had for wine. Unlike in Australia, where the wine industry often prioritises marketability over farming, European wine culture seemed deeply rooted in the principles of cultivation and heritage.”

Brendan takes the example of natural wine - where it was 10 years ago and what its focus is today, where the Australian public used to concentrate more on how the finished product tasted like, rather than what was happening during the whole process of producing it. But over the course of a few years, things changed and Brendan and Laura’s philosophy started getting the spotlight.
“We’re really geeky about biology, chemistry and physics - all stuff we learned at university. We want use that knowledge in understanding what our grape growers do, but also apply the important principles to our winemaking. We work with people that care about what they’re planting and producing as much as we do, so we have to keep learning from each other.”
Sustainability is a big topic of discussion for Unico Zelo and every time we talk to Laura, Brendan and/or Noah, they give us fresh perspectives about what matters in farming and what is changing with global warming.

“Take Fiano for example, a grape that truly shines in our selection. Fiano finds a cosy home in Riverland, mirroring the climatic conditions - rainfall patterns, altitude, and diurnal range - of its native Campania. This prompts a critical reflection: why cultivate Shiraz, which yields mediocre results here, when we can embrace a varietal ideally suited to this terroir? When it comes to farming, our approach prioritizes the restoration of the soil, long compromised by conventional farming practices. We eschew irrigation, focusing instead on preparing the soil meticulously before even planting our vines. This method is not merely about growing grapes but about rejuvenating the earth itself, challenging the status quo of viticulture by choosing a path that both respects and enhances the natural environment.”



The Wines

Unico Zelo is certified B Corp, engaging in a rigorous reassessment of their operational impact every three years, across five pivotal categories: governance, workers, customers, community, and environment. Open communication about these practices is vital as it fosters collective growth and understanding, pushing towards more sustainable and effective practices.

“In Australia there are not many rules, but people want to break them all all the time. Transparency is very important to us. We’re gluttons for demands in sustainability and transparency. Our ambition is to set a benchmark so high that anyone visiting our website is inspired to surpass it - we want people to say ‘I want to be better than Unico’. B Corp is extremely important to us. This endorsement affirms that our practices significantly benefit not just our business but also our employees, community, suppliers, and the planet, which is incredible.”

In the wide range of the wines & spirits Unico Zelo produces, you will see amazing attention to detail in everything from the taste profile all the way to the label. The Italian-inspired and site-expressive wines came from various sources of inspiration around Australia and Europe.

“Our journey with Barbera is inspired by the exceptional wines of Frasca in Monferrato, a beacon of excellence in Piemonte. In Australia, Jasper Button, with his revolutionary approach to farming, fuels our admiration for sustainable practices. Similarly, Gareth Belton of Gentle Folk, with his avant-garde vision, has boldly ventured into planting Sangiovese, showcasing the potential of the grape variety. Charlotte Dalton stands out for crafting some of Australia's finest Semillons, setting a high standard for quality and complexity. Spider Bill's mastery with Dolcetto reminds us of the varietal's understated versatility. Each of these winemakers not only influences our approach but also drives us to continually innovate and push the boundaries of our winemaking.”

Exploring Unico Zelo’s collection you'll encounter a diverse array of single vineyard Fianos and Neros, Barbera and Dolcetto, rosés and pet nats. Here, creativity knows no bounds and every experiment in viticulture and winemaking not only thrives but also adds to the playful spirit that defines this incredible group of people.

[Originally published in May 2024]



Aleksandar Draganic